by Ilhem Oubarah
The very first time I formulated this balm, I was in the middle of experimenting with colours. I wanted a blue balm because I had this bottle of woad seed oil I was dying to formulate with and woad was used in the past to produce a blue dye. I wanted a blue soothing balm. A few experiments later, I had a balm with hemp seed oil. Best of all, I had a green balm! That’s the way formulation goes.:)
I love my green balm and I use it instead of an oil or even as a masque when my or my son’s skins need TLC. When my skin feels tight because it’s dehydrated, I give it a good dose of moisture and humectants and I seal the deal with the Schreck balm (my son has references). Plumped, soothed skin in the morning guaranteed! It’s also very effective to soothe angry red pimples, the ones without a white head (hello glamour).
So, here’s my green soothing balm.
Camellia oil. Its composition is very close to olive oil but with the exotic aura of the geishas. It’s just as rich in regenerating vitamin E as olive oil but easier to use thanks to its neutral smell. It softens the skin and gives a velvety feel.
Avocado oil. Avocado oil is rich in oleic acid and is, therefore, a nourishing, emollient, softening and protective oil. It brings softness and offers comfort. The vitamins A and E it contains have useful regenerating properties for damaged skins.
Hemp seed oil. One of my favourite oils. It’s my first choice for an impaired barrier because of its great anti-inflammatory action and its barrier repairing activity. It’s a very interesting ingredient for all skin types thanks to its balanced ratio of omegas.
Roman chamomile CO2 extract. Here’s a plant that has been used for time immemorial and for good reasons! This extract has a fair amount of bisabolol and chamazulene, both renowned ingredients for distressed skin. Chamazulene is particularly interesting for acne prone skins too.
Shea butter butter. It’s well-known for all its benefits in skincare. Among other things, cinnamic acid offers soothing properties while vitamins A and E help the skin in its healing process.
Blue tansy essential oil. Chamazulene gives this oil a stunning blue indigo colour and powerful soothing properties.
High altitude lavender essential oil. It smells incredibly good and it’s soothing too.
Helichrysum essential oil. It helps with redness and has a purifying and regenerating action.
For 30 gr.
- Shea butter – 44%, 13,2 gr.
- Hemp seed oil – 20%, 6 gr.
- Camellia oil – 16,1 %, 4,83 gr.
- Avocado oil – 16,1%, 4,83 gr.
- Beeswax – 3%, 0,9 gr.
- High altitude lavender essential oil – 0,25%, 0,075 gr.
- Helichrysum essential oil – 0,25%, 0,075 gr.
- Blue tansy essential oil – 0,1%, 0,03 gr.
- Rosemary CO2 extract – 0,1%, 0,03 gr.
- Roman chamomile CO2 extract – 0,1%, 0,03 gr
- Disinfect your work table and material.
- Weigh the butter, the avocado and camellia oils and the wax in a beaker.
- Put the beaker in a bain-marie.
- Let them melt slowly.
- When all ingredients are melted, stir the liquid preparation out of the heat to make it cool down. You can put the beaker in a cold bath to speed the process.
- Add the hemp seed oil, the extracts and the essential oils under 40°C and stir again.
- Now it’s time to put your still liquid balm in the fridge for short periods of time. 10 minutes in the fridge → stir at room temperature → 10 minutes in the fridge → stir at room temperature → 10 minutes in the fridge, etc. until the preparation thickens. You might need to shorten the stay in the fridge at the end of the process.
- Stir to the trace. It’s the moment when your stirring leaves a trace in the thickened preparation.
- Pour in a jar.
- Put the open jar in the fridge for approximately 12 hours.
- After the 12 hours, keep your open jar at room temperature. You can close the lid when you can’t see any sign of condensation.
- It’s ready!